“Without Jerusalem, the land of Israel is as a body without a soul.”
— Elhanan Leib Lewinsky; Hebrew writer.
Jerusalem is the most Epic city in Israel. It is chaotic, beautiful, diverse, stressful, joyful and sometimes scary. Walking around you will see Muslims in traditional clothes, Orthodox Jews of all kind, Ethiopian Christians, Catholics, Orthodox, Protestants and who knows who I forgot… ahh, the Armenians?
It’s also a student city so you can add them to the chaos. You will see around hipsters, gays, tourists and whatever you imagine or not. In some places, it’s a mix of all of the people mentioned above together and it can create funny situations sometimes.
Feel like hiking? You can find forests, springs, and caves inside the city. Walk/run few kilometers and you will find yourself in forests, trails, springs, and mountains.
In the summer it’s hot, in the winter you might get snow once in a while, and less than an hour drive you will find yourself in the desert.
Get my point?
weak people who can handle its awesomeness prefer Tel Aviv, go figure…
How to get to Jerusalem?
How to get from Ben Gurion Airport to Jerusalem?
Busses:
Note that it is outside of the central bus station.
From February 2017 there is a direct bus from the airport to Jerusalem, the line number is 485.
- pickup point at the airport is the arrival level of terminal 3. Drop point at Jerusalem is near the Central bus station which is also next to the tram.
- Pickup point in Jerusalem is at Yafo Street 220 next to the central bus station.
The bus runs every hour 24 hours except Shabbat.
Note that it is not an Egged bus. The company is called ‘Afikim’.
The way they did it in the bible before February 2017:
First, you will have to take a bus to El-Al junction:
- Egged(אגד) bus number 5.
- Veolia bus number 239.
- Kavim(קווים) bus number 13.
cost 5 ILS.
from El-Al junction to Jerusalem:
- Egged bus number 947 to Jerusalem.
cost 21.5 ILS.
Timetable
Tel Aviv to Jerusalem:
- bus 480 from Arlozorov central train station at the bus area (center Tel Aviv).
- bus 405 from the central bus station (south Tel Aviv).
There is a bus every 20 min, its costs 16 ILS and the ride is around 1 hour.
other places– check the public transport page for more info
Getting around Jerusalem:
Jerusalem is unofficially divided into 4 sections: the Jewish “Modern City” Area, the Jewish Haredim area, the Arab area (known as East Jerusalem) and The Old City which is itself divided into small sections.
Each part has its own “Down Town Area” and each of these parts you’ll feel like you are in a completely different city although the distances between those areas can be less than a kilometer away.
- Kikar Zion (Zion Square) for the modern part.
- Kikar ha-Shabbat for the Jewish Haredim part.
- Damascus gate for the Muslim part.
- The Old City is its own unique place.
Don’t worry, you can get hummus in all parts.
Modern City
Also here the term is not accurate. Some parts here are older than East Jerusalem or the old city. That’s the biggest area of the city.
Yafo( or Jaffa) Street is the main road in Jerusalem. It’s a wide walking street with only a tram moving on it. The street goes from the Central Bus Station all the way to the old city. it’s around 35 min walk or 10 min with the tram.
fun fact:
The main street in Yafo (Jaffa) is called Jerusalem. Why is that? Well in the old time’s pilgrims were coming to Jerusalem through Jaffa port. So that route was the main road between Jerusalem and Yafo.
East Jerusalem
A political line which is defined by the truce between the Jewish forces and the Jordanian Legion in 1949. The term “East” in not exactly correct because those areas are also to the north and south of the city center.
The area was under Jordanian rule between 1948-1967.
Unlike the Palestinians in the West Bank who are citizens of the Palestinian Authority or the Arabs of Israel who are Israeli citizens, the Palestinians of Jerusalem are in a complex status. Israel sees Jerusalem as its united capital. The Palestinians there didn’t want an Israeli citizenship so they got a status of “known residences”. They can vote for Jerusalem municipality but not for the parliament.
Haredim/Ultra Orthodox area
The Haredim choose to live in communities and because of that, they are concentrated in few areas around the city. The most famous area is Mea Shearim and Geula area. On Saturday evening you can watch a Klezmer show.
Old City of Jerusalem
The historical heart of the city. Check the Old City page
Jerusalem Atmosphere and insights:
Jerusalem Bagel
When Israelis go to visit Jerusalem they must have a Jerusalem bagel. Not because it has a special unique taste or it’s some high-quality food. It’s just because if you didn’t have one, you haven’t been to Jerusalem. It comes with a small bag of za’atar to deep the bagel in.
Jerusalem Distinctive Look
As you’ll walk around the streets of Jerusalem you’ll notice the distinctive color and look of the buildings in the city. By law from the time of the British to this day any outer wall of a building must be covered with “Jerusalemite stone” to preserve the unique character of the city.
People of Jerusalem
Jerusalem population is more religious compared to other cities and you can feel it. Especially on Shabbat, the modern City becomes almost like a ghost town. But it doesn’t mean there are no good bars, nightlife or just events and festivals which are not about God.
Unlike Tel Aviv which is mostly young people from all over the country who came to be part of the scene, Jerusalem is more diverse. Students, Ultra-Orthodox, Arabs, families, some of the poorest people in the country next to some of the richest, big artist scene and more.
Unlike what people outside of Israel might think, people from all religion and background mix more than you might think in some aspects. Many Arabs work in West Jerusalem, and Jews go shopping in East Jerusalem:
Why there are lions everywhere in Jerusalem?
If you read the part of the 12 tribes and why Jews are called Jews, you know that they are from the tribe of Judah. The land was split between each tribe and Jerusalem was in the region of Judea. Each tribe had his own symbol and the symbol of Judah was… a lion.
So that’s why they chose the lion to be the symbol of the city.
Iron Lion Zion
If you read that page you know that one of the names of Jerusalem is Zion. Know the song Iron Lion Zion? Now it all make sense.
Terror Attacks Memorials
Being passed by many who don’t really know what is the meaning of these small signs.
Those signs are reminders to a terror attack that happened at that exact location with the names of the victims.
Most of the signs will be from the years of 1995-1997 (peace talks and attacks by extremist) and 2000-2004 (second Intifada) times where suicide bombing was a real threat on the city streets.
note in the middle, 5 people with the same sure name. a whole family.
On Shabbat
Wait, what is Shabbat? Check here.
Because most people live in this city are religious, Jerusalem will be much quieter and in shut down mode. Walking on Saturday morning on Yafo Street can give the feeling of a ghost town. In case you need to buy stuff or want to go out here are some places that will be open:
- The Arab area of the city will be business as usual, everything is open. in case you need to buy something.
- In the modern city, you will have few convenient stores that are open 24/7. One on this junction. another one here.
- The Ben Shatach pubs area will be open and the restaurants in the City Center.
- Abraham Hostel bar is open.
- The old train station compound and restaurants are open on Shabbat.
- Ein Karem restaurants are open on Shabbat.
- You have minibusses to Tel Aviv from Harav Kuk Street near Zion Square. Its leaves when the minibus is filled with people and cost 32 ILS.
Cheap Jerusalem:
Although Jerusalem is the capital of Israel, it is relatively cheap for the budget traveler. Jerusalem has many markets and cheap falafel and other street food compare to TLV and other places. Also, because of the high concentration of 6 Shekels chains will make your life easier.
Cheapest Accommodation in Jerusalem
Citadel Youth Hostel has the cheapest option for accommodation. Sleeping on the roof with all of its pluses and downsides. Just on a mattress with blankets or sleeping bag. Jerusalem nights can be cold even in the summer and winter nights are less than 10 degrees. During summer once the sun is out it will boil you and poke you until you can’t sleep anymore.
Buying food and groceries:
Groceries:
Markets:
although the most famous market in Jerusalem is Machne Yehuda. It is not the always the cheapest option. Near Damascus gate, there are some Arab markets which are most of the time cheaper than Machne Yehuda. Although might have less diversity.
Supermarkets:
There are few big supermarkets near the city center. The big ones are cheaper than the small ones which are open 24 hours.
-There is a big supermarket in Klal building which is the big ugly building next to the davidka square.
-Just next to the market entrance on Yafo Street.
on the right Cofix store with a bar at night.
The red arrow point at a cheap big supermarket inside the building.
6 Shekel chains
All over Yafo Street, you will find many 6 shekel chains. From Cofix to Coffiz to many small places.
on Hadavidka square you have a big Cofix place which is also a cheap bar at night. you can see this specific Cofix shop in the photo above.
Fast Food
Agripas Street is the king of the cheap fast food. Mainly cheap pizza and falafel. If you had enough of falafel, there are many cheap pizza places, a medium size pizza for 2 men for 20 ILS. Don’t expect high quality.
Simple Home Made Meal
On Yafo Street next to the City Hall train station you can get a simple meal for 25 ILS
Where to stay in Jerusalem
The Old City
Machne Yehuda Market
Mea Shearim
Top 3 Museums of Jerusalem
Lifta
Klezmer
Valley Of The Cross
Going Out In Jerusalem
Where to stay in Jerusalem
The Old City
Machne Yehuda Market
Mea Shearim
Top 3 Museums of Jerusalem